Marrakech, Mecca of Diversity

First impressions

As we began to descend, to one side of the plane there were large swaths of desert dunes, and on the other side, the towering Atlas Mountains. Approaching the airport, the medina could clearly be seen; the sand-colored buildings and the winding pedestrian veins made the area look like fractured earth. 

The airport was spotless, bright and decorative with familiar Arabic shapes and designs. On the way to the city center, I immediately noticed how many mopeds were on the road. They seem to rule the lanes. Riders were both men and women, and occasionally a child could be spotted sandwiched in between two adults. Helmets were not widely worn, and female riders let their head scarves blow freely in the wind while still keeping their locks secure and discreetly hidden from view.   

There were no apparent rules on the road. If a space freed up, a car or moped would fill the gap. Soon pedestrians joined the mix of traffic as we drove closer to the Medina, walking along and crossing the road when there was opportunity. It was a calm and controlled chaos, which I would soon learn was one of the characteristics of this vibrant city.  

On the way to the main square, I noticed that seating at outdoor cafés was facing out towards the street, instead of the more common position of opposing sides of a table. This added a theatrical feel to the arrangement which, after witnessing the non-stop action in the streets, seemed sensible.  

One of many ornate Moorish doors seen in and around the Medina

Accommodations

I made arrangements to stay at a riad, a traditional Moroccan house characterized by an inner courtyard with fountain. It was located off the main square, Jemaa el-Fnaa, in the center of Marrakech. Riads are a fantastic place to stay for an authentic feel. They’re also economical, host a limited number of guests, and include serene and colorful decor. Riads normally include a hearty breakfast of traditional breads with cheese and jams, fresh squeezed orange juice, coffee, and occasionally eggs. Several riads are located in the Medina, a cluster of mazes filled with cafés, mosques, hammams, and countless vendors selling everything from cookies to handmade chess sets.

Preparing for breakfast in the courtyard at Riad Sabbah

Riad Sabbah is located on a quiet, quirky lane flanked by stores with women’s dresses and headless child mannequins, just around the corner from a stall hung with stuffed camels and handmade leather shoes. There are a series of doors and locks to penetrate before entering the riad. The last doorway opens at no taller than 5’5” for a hobbit-like feel to the adventure.

Once I entered the riad, I was welcomed by friendly and gracious staff and lush green scenery inhabited by chirping birds. The sound of the bustling Medina outside came to a sudden stop as I was pulled back in time and into a traditional and welcoming home. 

Outdoor common area at Riad Sabbah

After a three-day tour to the Sahara (see Sahara Blues blog post), I stayed at Riad Hamza, in part to experience a different riad that was still within the convenience of Jemaa el-Fnaa. Riad Hamza has nine rooms, compared to Sabbah’s five. It was larger in structure and elaborately decorated in colorful tiles. There is a rooftop terrace with impressive views of the Atlas Mountains, and the activity of Jemaa el-Fnaa was within ear shot.

I found both accommodations equally charming. However, I found Riad Sabbah to be quieter, more rustic, and with more comfortable outside lounge areas where once can retreat from the chaos of the Medina and enjoy silence or the sound of birds.

View of Koutoubia Mosque from the terrace at Riad Hamza

People

I headed out to explore within minutes of my arrival. I was overwhelmed by the sights, sounds and colors in the main square. The unmistakable sound of the rhaita, the wind instrument used by snake charmers to solicit their slithery displays, pierced the air. I was struck by the dense mix of different cultures and nationalities. Vendors were outgoing, friendly, and fearless when it came to approaching and inviting me to partake in buying, eating, or engaging, as it were, with monkeys in the square. It was intoxicating.

One of many snake charmers in Jemaa el-Fnaa square

I chose to dress conservatively out of respect for the predominantly Muslim population. Although many women were dressed in long colorful dresses and headscarves, and in some cases face coverings, many were donning spaghetti straps and short skirts or shorts. No one seemed to mind in any obvious way. When I asked a new friend and local musician, he said that Marrakech was very tolerant, and that both western and Moroccan women were known to dress less conservatively without upset to the more conservative-leaning population. My new friend, Ali, is Amazigh (Berber), and I would soon learn more about the Amazigh culture and their acceptance of diversity (see Amazigh ⵄⵎⴰⵣⵉⴳⵀ [not Berber] blog post).

One of many alleyways in the Medina, this one wider and less crowded that others

The people in Morocco have very attractive features. I was particularly fond of observing senior men in their 70s-80s. They were spry as they went about their daily business in the streets, proudly wearing their history in the form of dark and weathered skin, the natural aging of the folds creating a handsome and distinguished appearance. I nearly mistook one gentleman for a mannequin as he stood in a doorway wearing a pinstriped suit, elegantly holding a cigarette, with thick salt and pepper hair, mocha-colored skin, and a robust but well-trimmed moustache.

Traditional musicians spotted one evening walking through the Medina

Marrakech is known as the “Rose City” for the earthen clay tones of the building structures throughout the city. As the sun changes position in the sky, shades of beige shift to blush, similar to the Sahara sand dunes, raising question as to the true color of the structures. Similar to the shifting colors of the buildings, there is a fluidity to Marrakech, and to Moroccan culture in general. It is in tandem peaceful and frenzied. The people are warm and friendly, and they often didn’t hesitate to say “welcome” as they passed by.

Music link

While in Marrakech, I had the privilege of meeting Ali Àit Zaouit. A dedicated and talented musician, Ali performs at Cafe Clock in Marrakech most Fridays (Cafe Clock is a cultural cafe where visitors and locals meet and mingle). Check out Ali's music and follow him for regular updates. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JovHRzK9E4A