The Noble Chicken

Moroccan food is fragrant, colorful, and delivers several flavors in a well-choreographed performance for the tastebuds. The taste comes through as a cultural expression, steadfast and multifaceted, bringing together multiple distinct flavors in an explosion of pleasure that unites without misstep. It’s satisfying without feeling heavy, and ingredients are overwhelmingly healthy. I found there to be less salt than what my American palate is used to, which brought forward the variety and subtlety of spices found throughout the cuisine.

There’s no shortage of great places to eat in Marrakech. Prices generally range from less than $10 to nearly $100. In this blog post, I highlight one notable restaurant in Marrakech that falls around midrange. Generally speaking, I found the less expensive meals to be better quality overall. That said, it’s worth pursuing fine dining in Marrakech, in part for the ambiance, but also because the variety is broad and chances of having a good meal is substantial, even if competitive with more economical dining options. Plus, fine dining restaurants are more likely to serve Moroccan wines.  

Moroccan wine

Morocco boasts 14 wine growing regions. That they produce wine at all comes as a surprise to many, including myself. Due to cultural and religious values, alcohol is not commonly served throughout the country although consumption is legal. In bigger cities such as Marrakech, it can be purchased at select hotels and restaurants. When dining at high-end establishments with fixed price menus, wine is likely to accompany the order. I had the opportunity to try multiple wines, mostly from the Meknes region.

“Grey” or light rosé from the Meknes region at Ksar Essaoussan

Ksar Essaoussan 

Ksar Essaoussan is located deep inside the Medina. If not for the signage, it would not have been easy to find. As with many sought after locations in Marrakech, the restaurant was discreetly tucked away in the rose-colored maze. I mapped the location and made my way there only to find myself staring down an empty alley with two gentlemen disposing of garbage. After a polite exchange of “bon jour,” I spotted the sign that pointed down the inconspicuous alleyway, assuring me I would find my destination. 

Alleyway to the well-hidden Ksar Essaoussan

I eventually found myself ringing a bell beside one of the typical decorative Moroccan double doors that include a smaller opening within the larger door. A casually dressed man answered. I asked if he could accommodate me for lunch. This was at 3:30PM, an awkward time since it falls between the more common times to eat lunch and dinner. After a brief pause and subsequently closing the door to inquire, he came back with good news.

It was dark as we entered the building. I followed my host closely down the winding hall then up (or down, I can’t recall) stairs until we reached the dining area. Bright, lush, elegant. The building is a 500-year-old riad that was once occupied by French nobility. In typical riad fashion, there was a fountain in the middle of the courtyard, which now happened to be in the middle of the dining area in the newly renovated structure.  

Main dining area in Ksar Essaoussan, Marrakech

Once seated, another casually dressed waiter promptly brought me a menu. I appreciated that I was the only patron in the restaurant. The casual dress was likely due to my untimely mealtime –  it was denim and sneakers with a smile. I found it endearing and it added to the already impressive atmosphere.

The food

The starter was a traditional Moroccan salad; a series of plates with a variety of vegetables, some of which were sliced, others pulverized, and all of them accented with different sauces and spices. Honey, curry, flower water, horseradish – it was enough to leave my head spinning in culinary delight.

Moroccan salad served with a smile at Ksar Essaoussan, Marrakech

I selected the chicken tagine with lemon for the main. It was straightforward, simple yet succulent and savory. After popping a few more olives that were served as hors d'oeuvres, I opted for the milk pastilla for dessert. Milk pastilla is made with flaky pastry and layered with a light creamy custard. The version I ordered was topped with chopped almonds and cinnamon.

Milk pastilla, a traditional Moroccan dessert

As the reader has likely gathered from the above photos, I indulged in Moroccan wine to pair with my meal. I selected a rosé to complement the vegetables and chicken with lemon. This particular one was a vin gris, a light rosé, from Guerrouane, Morocco, near the Meknes region. This was my first tasting of local wines and it did not disappoint. It was a solid dry variety and went well with the meal.

I highly recommend Ksar Essaoussan for lunch or dinner. This elaborate and seductive meal set in an atmospheric setting cost 400 MAD or approximately $40. It was one the best meals I had overall, and by far it was the best Moroccan salad I tasted.   

Restaurant link

Ksar Essaoussan can be found in the Medina off of Jamaa el-Fnaa square: https://www.essaoussane.com