Iceland, Land of Contrasts
The very nature of being in Iceland is incredibly unique. I decided to take a trip in February 2023 to see if I could catch the Northern Lights while enjoying the sights and local fare. It felt as if I was dropped off on another planet. Before even landing in Reykjavik, as we hovered in the plane above the cloudscape stretching as far as the eye could see, the colors of the sky looked different; there were pastels and hues of pink and orange sandwiched between swaths of baby blue sky and gossamer clouds.
Iceland is a land of contrasts ranging from the landscape itself to social habits: icy waterfalls near geothermal fields, smooth snow-capped mountains stand above jagged pitch-black lava fields, beer was illegal until 1987 though hard alcohol was not, and locals bathe outdoors in sub-freezing temperatures.
The island nation is essentially hardened volcanic matter that bubbled up from in between two tectonic plates where people have managed to harness violent and life-threatening forms of the earth’s energy and establish thriving communities. All the while, this perpetually active landscape continues to grow and expel gases, gurgle mud, and tremor above a bed of stewing volcanic activity.
Field of pseudo craters in the foreground and Hverfjall crater in the background formed 2,500 years ago
The landscape
The most striking feature of Iceland is its exotic and other-worldly landscape. Visiting in winter added to its exotic appearance. The colors were black and white with occasional patches of earth tone vegetation that survived burial by snowfall. I spent most of my time in the northern region along the longest fjord in Iceland, Eyjafjörður, visiting towns inhabiting between 130-1,500 residents. These and other small towns were nestled against the foot of mountains, measuring roughly 1,000 meters high with smooth-appearing slopes leading into the thinly populated areas. I couldn’t help but feel unnerved driving alongside this scene that seemed to threaten an avalanche at any moment.
Hrísey Island off the coast of Árskógssandur with Mt. Kaldbakur (where energy is said to transfer to east Hrísey, a well-known energy zone) across the fjord and local ferry pictured on the right
Located east from the end of Eyjafjörður, Lake Mývatn and the surrounding area was the highlight of contrasting landscapes during my visit. From gassy vents to icy waterfalls, this captivating landscape was easily accessible by road and still maintained an appearance of being uncorrupted by humans. Led by our trusted guide Thor – who looked every bit the part with his broad stature, long blond hair, and rugged good looks – a small group of us visited several sites in and around Lake Mývatn.
Goðafoss waterfall off the Ring Road
The Hverir geothermal fields is an active region near Lake Mývatn where you can get up close and personal with earthly activity. The earth belches gasses and boils mud at the surface, while the distinct and very pungent smell of sulfur floods the surrounding air; all of this coupled with the constant and pronounced hissing of gas vents rightfully occupies the senses. Easily accessible from the famous Ring Road, the contrasting colors and temperatures make for a dramatic experience.
Gas vent at Hverir Geothermal Area off the Ring Road in North Iceland
As part of the Lake Mývatn excursion, we also visited nearby Dimmuborgir (Dark Cities). This is a lava field known as a forest of “unlucky trolls” where, according to legend, trolls live in the hills. Those caught outside in the sun turn to stone, represented by volcanic columns in various twisted forms.
According to Nordic folklore, there are also Yule Lads residing in Dimmuborgir. Iceland doesn’t celebrate Christmas with Santa Claus, but instead with 13 Yule Lads. They are said to have been raised by trolls, have a reputation for being mischievous, and they bring presents to well-behaved children around Christmas; a sort of fun uncle alternative to Santa Claus.
“Unlucky trolls” caught in the sun at Dimmuborgir
The people
Icelanders do a masterful job of striking a balance between surviving harsh and unforgiving winters in contrast with a very friendly and light-hearted disposition. Where in other locations people stay indoors at the slightest of rainfalls, Icelanders are out and about in heavy snow and unforgiving temperatures. It takes extreme weather conditions to close roads and keep people indoors.
Due to the geothermal nature of the island, swimming pools and mineral spas are common throughout the country. In the dead of winter, it’s not uncommon for people to head out barefoot to the nearest outdoor pool wearing only a bathing suit. Whether doing laps for exercise or casually lounging in a spa, weather conditions that would typically shut a facility down in many regions of the world remain open. (I very quickly adapted to this during my stay.)
Warm tub for bathing outside on the freezing grounds of Kaldi Beer Spa with view of the fjord
I was struck by the general upbeat, friendly nature of the locals and how generous they were with setting aside time and effort to help others. On multiple occasions, I received unsolicited kindness; motorists stopping to ask if I needed help as I was walking during a moderate snowfall, store owners taking time to look up details when I asked about directions or points of interest (again, unsolicited), neighbors advising me on the best way to step through a slippery and slushy sidewalk, and a fellow commuter sharing her hotspot with me as we waited for a bus so that I could purchase a ticket in advance. All done with warmth, kindness, and with the appearance that helping others brought pleasure.
Kids dressed up to celebrate Ash Wednesday and singing at a local store for candy
The icing on the cake of layered contrasts was encountering a group of kids on Ash Wednesday while touring the communities around Lake Mývatn. Kids dress up as monsters or their favorite hero, just as they do for Halloween in the US, and go store to store to sing for candy. We ran into a bus load of kids who entered a convenient store (as I was inconveniently trying to purchase a hot dog) and were regaled with catchy Icelandic folk songs as they were singing for their supper, so to speak. It was a delightful way to wind down the excursion before heading to the Mývatn Nature Baths for a mineral soak at the end of a long and fulfilling journey.
Me at Hverir Geothermal Area with gas vent in background
Guide link
Visiting Lake Mývatn was a highlight in North Iceland. Thor is a very knowledgable and conscientious guide. He is a great contact for anyone interested in exploring North Iceland. You can find him on Instagram at: https://www.instagram.com/thortheguide/