Hail to the Queenies
If you ask local Manxmen what the national dish of the Isle of Man is, you’ll likely get different responses. There are two dishes that have jostled for this title for some time, and they couldn’t be more different from each other. However, they are both, to my discriminating tastebuds, equally delicious.
Queen scallops, or “queenies” as they are lovingly known, are an impressive dish for many reasons, not least of which is their silky, delicate texture and ever so light sweet flavor. The succulent little dabs are normally served with several to a dish and splashed with a light cream sauce. They are grown, harvested, and produced all within Isle of Man territory, with harvest season traditionally starting in June. Unlike other scallops, instruments are used to provoke a fleeing response, and the scallops are then captured in a net as they swim away. This approach reduces damage and the accumulation of grit that can occur with dredging.
Queen scallops, or queenies, with bacon and white wine sauce
Chips, cheese, and gravy, on the other hand, can be dredged up any time of year. Made with fried potatoes, cheddar cheese, and beef gravy, it has broad and patriotic appeal, even if it’s not quite as elegant as queenies. When it comes to competition for national dish status, this devilishly good comfort food has a dedicated day of celebration – the last Monday of January is National Chips, Cheese & Gravy Day.
My love of carbs and all things cheese would normally have led me to try different modifications of chips, cheese, and gravy. In effort to balance my diet and not send my cholesterol to the moon, I opted to limit my tastings. I found a range in flavors and weightiness to the dishes I sampled. My favorite was the heavier version with generous cheese and thick-cut chips swimming in a rich, dark gravy, sampled at a pub in Castletown. The leaner and lighter version had shaved vegetables on top and a much lighter wine gravy. It was delicious in its own right, and paired with a local beer from Okell’s Brewery topped off the experience.
Chips, cheese, and gravy made with red wine and local Okell’s IPA
There were other surprises on the food and drink seen. Aside from local cuisine, there was a generous variety of international foods. I ventured out to dine at a popular French restaurant, where I heartily consumed a delicate cheese souffle and perfectly cooked medium-rare beef filet, paired with a French red wine. On the more spirited side of things, I was introduced to Manx gin, distilled on the island using a variety of local fruits and herbs. Seasonal flavors are available throughout the year.
Seasonal strawberry gin from local distillery
One well-known local dish I didn’t indulge in was Manx kippers, captured locally and cured traditionally. It’s a good enough reason for me to return to the Isle of Man one day for more foodie adventures.