From Bastion to the Big House
Castletown is the former capital of the Isle of Man and location of the original Tynwald, the oldest continuous parliament in the world, still in existence today. Castletown served as the capital for nearly 800 years until 1869. Castle Rushen was built in the 10th century as a defense to protect the newly established capital and its resident king. Today, it’s one of the best-preserved medieval castles anywhere in Europe.
The Castletown fortress would function long past the last Norse king and into battles between the Scottish and English. Centuries later, it would move from protecting to punishing those within its walls by becoming a prison in the 1800s.
Top of Castle Rushen in Castletown viewed from outside the castle walls
Over the years, Castle Rushen underwent physical transformations, building upon its fortification, and serving different purposes as history evolved. There was rarely a peaceful moment, and many if not most of the inhabitants struggled in defense, illness, or imprisonment, and perhaps in some cases all three. Given the reputation of the structure and its malevolent history, Castle Rushen beckoned for a visit. From Douglas, I traveled on the local steam railway, 150 years old in 2023 and still using the original locomotives and carriages.
Inside steam railway car on the way to Castletown
Visitors can liberally roam the castle grounds at a leisure pace. There are even picnic benches inside the castle walls for those who choose to take a break and enjoy a snack while ogling canons, murder holes, and dark walkways that lead underground. Visitors can also walk on top of the walls of the castle where they’re treated to picturesque views of the surrounding town and the Irish Sea.
View of the sea and Castletown with partial castle wall in foreground
What struck me during my visit was not only what I saw, but what I felt. In addition to the turbulent history, there were stories about spirit sightings. There are accounts online about specific sightings, and even a written testimony from three teenage boys who shared an encounter in the 1960s. I spoke with one of the employees onsite who told me very specific stories that he was privy to, having worked there for several years. Multiple staff members have had different encounters, with some having more frequent or intense experiences than others.
Narrow corkscrew stairway leading to several levels inside the castle added on over the years
Close up of tapestry at Castle Rushen
One common thread is the type of spirit seen by different staff. This holds true of the anecdotes I read online as well - some saw a little girl, others saw a woman in black - with matching descriptive details. I’ve never experience sightings firsthand, but it does pique my curiosity. One thing the gentleman said that resonated was that he and other staff have experienced a sense of “hopelessness” when inside the castle rooms. It’s not surprising, given what we know about what took place, and for anyone working there, they’re naturally invested in the history. But the word hopelessness rang true with how I felt, before I ever met him, as I wandered through the various damp and dimly lit rooms that once held fighters, the infirm, and the imprisoned.
Portcullis at Castle Rushen entryway
After leaving the castle, it felt strange to see a man playing light-hearted pop songs on an electric guitar in a public square, where children were jumping and playing in the sun. Clean white benches, and pink and purple flowers hanging from pots fastened to lamp posts, gave the square a serene and pleasant feel. Nearby, a group of friendly bespectacled backpackers were waiting patiently for the next bus. All the while, the massive dark and foreboding castle stood firm in the backdrop. Somehow these visitors and passersby, through their joyous hoots and celebratory energy, eclipsed the turbulent and violent history that took place for centuries within those limestone walls. Having just left the castle, the contrast was slightly alarming, and at the same time, the return to normalcy brought welcomed relief.