Summer with the Habsburgs
Located where two rivers meet and mountains dominate, Bad Ischl in Upper Austria is a surprisingly spirited town. It has everything you could want for a well-rounded vacation—gourmet food, awe-inspiring nature, dramatic history, and relaxation facilities. Located 20 kilometers and a short train ride north of Hallstatt, it’s one of the many highlights of the Salzkammergut region.
River Traun in Bad Ischl
Golden Ochs Hotel
When I made a reservation to spend two nights in Bad Ischl, I did it purely for convenience and curiosity. I wasn’t aware of the historical hotbed this small town was cradling. One of the most prominent and powerful families in the history of Europe spent summers here, basking in the shadows of the beautiful mountains, adjacent to an inviting emerald-green river. The Habsburgs have a long, intimate history with Bad Ischl. Once I was there, it was easy to see why they selected this location for their annual retreat.
Franz Jospeh's desk at Kaiservilla
While in Bad Ischl, Franz Joseph I signed the declaration of war on Serbia, leading to WW I. The signing took place at an unassuming wooden desk in the corner of a small room at the end of a hall in the grand estate, Kaiservilla, the Habsburg summer residence. I imagined the royals and their advisors strolling through the private forest on the grounds, located steps away from the villa, discussing this decisive action.
Politics aside, these stomping grounds of empires past influenced the establishment of spas and fine dining. Bad Ischl became a well-known spa resort town after an Austrian physician, Franz von Wirer, established baths to treat the injuries of salt mine workers. To serve the imperial family's sweet tooth, one of Austria’s finest confectioners, Johann Zauner, who also happened to be a wine merchant, was recruited to the region. Dating back to the 1800s, the local spa culture, and a top-notch patisserie are still very active today.
I spent a half day at the EurothermenResort. It has multiple large pools, an extensive sauna area, and refreshment huts. They have generous opening hours where you can relax for the day up until midnight. As a side note, European saunas are not for the shy. Nudity is normally required in this area of the spa and it’s coed.
Kartin trail from Bad Ischl
The following day, I went for a rigorous hike up the Katrin alp, a 1,200-meter climb stretching over two kilometers. Aside from taking in the views, this outing was partly to work off the beer and bratwurst I had accumulated over the previous days. I would immediately replace those burned calories with more Austrian delights from the almhütte, or chalet, at the top of the mountain.
There is an elation that comes with surrendering yourself to mountain landscapes in search of peace and tranquility. This was one of the most powerful experiences in the Salzkammergut—gentle and inviting slopes down to the lake, rivers snaking around the bases, steep climbs to the top, and boggling views that cameras struggle to capture. There are few things I’ve experienced that are more grounding or satisfying.
View towards Obertraun from Kartin
Bad Ischl is a kick-back town in a setting bejeweled with stunning natural features. Upscale dining options, high-end resorts, and its regal history form a cloak of elegance around this historic town.