Dessert Fit for an Empire
No trip to Austria is complete without indulging in their wide selection of world-famous pastries. With a café culture dating back to the 1600s, Austria has had centuries to perfect its confectionary collection. Widely known for apfelstrudel, this is just the tip of the sugary iceberg of sweets offered across the region. Many cafés have a full menu where you can order a savory meal, but the headliner is always dessert.
Apfelstrudel in Hallstatt
Homemade apfelstrudel is always a safe go-to comfit for an authentic experience. One of the best I had was at a small bar in Hallstatt. With time to kill before boarding the ferry back to Obertraun, I ducked into a small family-owned establishment. I ordered a beer when I spotted a few desserts on the counter in the distance. I decided to order the apfelstrudel, which is made onsite. It was served with a generous dollop of whipped cream competing for space on the plate. It was crisp on the outside and soft and sweet, but not too sweet, on the inside.
Eiskaffee at Konditorei Zauner
Bad Ischl is home to Konditorei Zauner (Confectionery Zauner), established in 1832 at the behest of a physician close to the Habsburg family. Johann Zauner was recruited because it was felt he was the only confectioner in Austria who could live up to imperial standards. Seven generations later, the Zauner family still runs a thriving business in Bad Ischl. On a warm summery day, I stopped by the esplanade location where I ordered eiskaffee (ice cream with coffee) and the cremeschnitte (cream slice). Although its history is nebulous, many sources date the origin of the cremeschnitte back to the Austro-Hungarian empire. This was unbeknownst to me as I delighted in its creamy layers.
Germknödel
A popular winter dessert is germknödel, which has the unfortunate translation of “yeast dumplings.” This doughy dessert has much brighter and more exciting flavors than the name implies. The dumpling is filled with plum jam, bathed in melted butter, and showered in ground poppyseed and powdered sugar. It’s common to find skiers devouring one of these after a hard day on the slopes. I found a package of germknödel in the frozen section in a small store in Obertraun. It had been over 30 years since I tasted one. You can’t compare frozen to fresh, but I craved the satisfaction of reliving my childhood days on the slopes with this pillowy dumpling.
Sachertorte at Tomaselli
Tomaselli is said to be the oldest coffee house in Austria, established in 1700. Located conveniently in the central Alter Markt, it serves a cornucopia of different cakes, including the famous Sachertorte, a chocolate cake with a thin vein of apricot jam in the middle. The history of the cake goes back to Prince Metternich. His staff requested that the prince’s chef make a dessert for a special occasion. Unwell at the time of the request, the chef’s young apprentice, Sacher, took on the task (no pressure). This 16-year-old wonder chef created a rich velvety chocolate cake that would be cherished through the ages.
Austrian desserts have been made over the centuries in response to historical events, pampering for chilly weather, and royal sweet tooth cravings. They are simple in how they satisfy and are made with great pride, finesse, and elegance.