Where Finn McCool Sleeps
The Greenway is a seven-kilometer dirt path connecting the villages of Omeath and Carlingford, located on the Cooley Peninsula in the northeast corner of the Republic of Ireland. The Greenway project blossomed out of the dismantling of the local railway that was discontinued in 1952. It’s a clever and environmentally-friendly way to utilize the land once occupied by tracks and trains. It now serves as a means for pedestrians and cyclists to safely travel between the two villages while enjoying the scenic landscape. The pathway is located at the end of gently sloping hills terminating at the water’s edge, flanked by the Carlingford Lough to one side and livestock pastures on the other. Not having rented a car, I found myself walking or running this path daily to reach the livelier scene of Carlingford.
Greenway pathway facing west towards Omeath
Cows in a field along the Greenway near Omeath
Once in Carlingford, after passing the colorful buildings that occupy the few quaint streets that make up the village center, there is a nature escape that starts in less than a kilometer up the road; Slieve Foye is the highest peak on the Cooley Mountains at 598 meters (1,932 feet), and is the said resting place of giant Finn McCool. There are a series of trails leading up to the peak where walkers can co-mingle with sheep along the sloping hillsides, carpeted in grass and lush with bright green ferns.
View from Slieve Foye facing east towards Carlingford
The trails zigzag across the mountain base up to the peak, creating a leisure and accessible route to the top. Grazing sheep huddle in clusters along the pathways, sometimes creating new pathways that may or may not confuse unfamiliar hikers. I passed a group of locals picnicking, and as I found through my journey, they were eager to engage and exchange pleasant banter.
Sheep roaming free in the Cooley Mountains overlooking Carlingford Lough
After a gentle descent back into town, I came across a sign near a “fairy tree,” indicating that it was under that very tree where a fairy queen lives with her daughters and fairy subjects. I found it amusing and sweet, and it tickled the recesses of my imagination, desperate for some truth to the exotic. I would find out later the degrees between deeply-rooted historical mythology and contemporary gimmicks designed to woo tourists after I excitedly mentioned this finding and received a few playful eyerolls.
The “fairy tree” where Queen Sadhbh lives with her family and disciples
With peaceful meadows and impressive views of the lough, the Greenway and Slieve Foye are accessible to casual and serious walkers and hikers alike. Stopping off in Carlingford for fish and chips and a pint of Guinness rounded off a full and satisfying afternoon.
Location in the Cooley Mountains where mythical Finn McCool’s dog Bran is buried
Thanks to a connection made by the host at Café Finca in Carlingford, where I was enjoyed a scone with tea before heading out on my walk, I eventually met Seamus Murphy. Seamus is known for his in-depth knowledge and organized walking groups in the Cooley Mountains. He is a well of information about the various trails in the region and the history behind them. Seamus was kind enough to meet with me and drive me into the Cooley Mountains to visit various points of interest, including a brief stop to dig for peat.
Seamus Murphy digging for Peat in the Cooley Mountains
One of the notable structures was a lengthy stone wall. Seamus explained that this was created as part of a project to employ people during the famine; a way to provide for the people of Ireland who were facing unimaginable hardships at the time. The wall didn’t serve any specific barrier purpose at the time. Today, in some sections, the wall is used as a demarcation of the border between Northern Ireland and the Republic.
Famine Wall in the Cooley Mountains near the border with Northern Ireland
To learn more about the region, there is a video called the Mountains of Cooley, narrated by Seamus. You can find the video link below.
The Mountains of Cooley, narrated by Seamus Murphy