The Pluck of the Irish

Belfast has been a witness and creator of both magnificence and tragedy. The spirit of the city is a mixture of steadfastness, toughness, and elation. It’s in this great city where thousands of men worked tirelessly to build the biggest, most luxurious ship in the world, creating her in excruciating detail, only to see her plunge to her demise on her first voyage into the unforgiving depths of the sea. It’s a city where passions run high with respect to freedom and religion, a quality that centuries ago was carried across the Atlantic and that I believe is still firmly rooted in her progeny. My time there was short, but it was long enough to experience the essence of the Northern Irish spirit, generously peppered with resilience and warmth.  

Traditional Irish trio playing on a Monday night at local pub Fibber Magees

My family was trepidatious when I told them I was visiting Belfast. The first thought that comes to mind is the terrible violence that plagued the area in the last half of the 20th century. I reassured them that Belfast was a different place. I would never undermine the lingering concerns still present in Northern Ireland, or presume that the Good Friday Agreement had solved all its problems. However, after reading about Belfast, it seemed as if there was a rebirthing of sorts; a new generation that was coming into its own within an emerging economy and tourist industry. I was interested to see the city for both its history and new beginnings.  

Partial length of the Peace Walls on Cupar Way

I loved listening to U2 when I was a teenager, and Sunday Bloody Sunday was one of my favorite songs. I half-listened to the lyrics; I didn’t catch most of what they were saying, but I couldn’t resist chiming in with the chorus when “Sunday Blood Sunday” passionately roared from Bono’s lungs. Released in 1983, I hadn’t the first clue as to what the song was about. During The Troubles, the Peace Walls in Belfast were built in 1969 to separate Catholic and Protestant communities. The intention was to reduce the potential for hostility, however, violence and death still unfolded within meters of the walls.

Peace Wall section with spikes on Cupar Way

Since the establishment of the peace agreement, and with tensions simmering down, there has been discussion about removing the walls. Some have already been dismantled, but there are still communities who feel they are necessary to keep the peace and many have remained in place. Now a popular tourist attraction, the sightseeing business is a mask over divisions that still exist. When I walked from the town center towards the west to see the walls, I had feelings of curiosity and awe as a tourist. After looking past the colorful graffiti, my eyes were drawn to the spikes sitting atop sections of the wall. It was then that a feeling of deep sadness welled within me at the realization that the anger and upset between two communities was so great, that it warranted erecting walls topped with a threaten display of metal. Sloshing back and forth between emotional responses, I hung on to the messages of peace, such as “love always wins,” that are now prevalent across the walls.

Peace Wall graffiti with messages of peace

Dedication near Peace Walls

Belfast offers so much more than its turbulent history. The food scene is lively, and music was emanating from various pubs around town; much of it reminiscent of American folk music, connecting the dots with our melodic ancestral roots across the pond. During several stops made throughout town, I experienced first-rate hospitality and sociability that I had thus far experienced across Ireland. I never felt like a stranger, and I left each place feeling I had made new friends.        

The famous Crown Liquor Saloon pub in central Belfast