Salt of the Earth
Stream in Obertraun
I chose Obertraun, Austria, for my destination because of its small size and optimal location. As a bonus, I would be within reach of Hallstatt without being in the thick of tourism. Set in an idyllic nook of green pastures at the foot of the Alps, this lakeside village has a population of fewer than 800. There are three restaurants, one cafe, and one small grocery store. Dachstein Krippenstein and other neighboring mountains dominate the setting. It’s the perfect location for hiking, biking, swimming, and taking in fresh mountain air.
Obertraun and Hallstatt are in the heart of the Salzkammergut (“salt domain”) region. In addition to its striking natural beauty, the area is well-known for its salt mines. With settlements dating back 7,000 years, Hallstatt proudly holds the record of having the oldest salt mine in the world. In addition to the massifs that characterize the landscape, Salzkammergut has over 70 lakes, remnants from glacial activity that carved out this part of the planet.
Nature trail along Hallstätter See
From Obertraun, I took the cable car to the top of Dachstein, not realizing I could hike there (which I would eventually do on my last day). After a leisure ride, I walked the trails at the top, a vast and open area with little protection from the sun. The temperature dropped with the journey, and after leaving the warm base of the mountain, the chilly breeze helped offset the powerful sun.
Hiking trails on Dachstein Krippenstein
Standing at 2,000 meters, the terrain was otherworldly, rocky, and unforgiving. The atmosphere was softened by the sprinkling of wildflowers everywhere—yellow, pink, and purple—sprung from patches of green. The views were pure poetry. Mountain peaks as far as the eye could see, some still harboring ice and snow from winter.
Approaching the ferry dock in Hallstatt
Hallstatt is a scenic 20-minute ferry ride from Obertraun. Cruising across the calm Hallstätter See, passengers are treated to views of towering mountains with jagged features and dense lakeside forests. Alpen-style lodges and cottages occasionally punctuate the tree-lined lake. During our trip, a resident waved as we slowly chugged by, a testament to the friendly nature of the local communities.
Evangelical Church of Hallstatt
The village is instantly recognized from the postcard-perfect images online—a church spire reaching up to the sky from the middle of a village clustered at the foot of a mountain and delicately balanced by the lake. Stepping onto the dock, Hallstatt begins to reveal its other lesser-known features— rushing waterfalls resembling curtains behind wood-built shops and restaurants, deer antlers hanging from gables as a show of hunter pride, and zigzagging trails leading up to the salt mines.
One of the more fascinating sites is the Charnel House ossuary, a cave-like chapel from the 12th century. It shelters 1200 skulls, 610 adorned with paintings representing glory, victory, life, and love. This unusual space was created when the dead started outnumbering available burial plots. After 10-20 years of grave rest, skeletons were removed and bleached by the sun before being added to the chapel.
View of Obertraun from Hallstatt
Local band in Obertraun
After topping off my day trip to Hallstatt with scrumptious homemade strudel, it was time to head back across the lake. Back in Obtertraun, I finished the evening with a free outdoor concert. Armed with wind and percussion instruments, including a glockenspiel, this local band played traditional Austrian music, Bohemian polkas, and 80s music.
Whitney Houston, Kool & The Gang, and Phil Collins emanated from the petite music pavilion, as the sky changed to twilight blue. The audience sat on benches in the small town square, hugged by orchards and open fields with grazing livestock. I sipped my apple schnapps as I sat back with great satisfaction and let the joyful atmosphere wash over me.