Older Than Athens

When I mentioned traveling to Bulgaria, I often heard, “Where?” in response, accompanied by a quizzical look and sometimes a raised eyebrow. It’s not that the responder hadn’t heard of Bulgaria, it’s just not a common destination to select for a springtime vacation, or so I hear. When I mentioned Plovdiv, conversations usually fell silent for a few seconds, since it’s not a widely known destination.

Plovdiv is a small city in the heart of Bulgaria. It’s easily reached by bus or train from Sofia and normally takes 2-3 hours, depending on the mode. Both stations are conveniently located next to each other, allowing flexibility with planning. The train station has plenty of airy space, well-marked ticket counters, and coffee machines. There was even a fresh-baked goods counter, which I gleefully patronized to indulge in what would be my first of many cheesy, bready snacks, the tutmanik. (Tutmanik is similar to a group of fluffy Thanksgiving rolls, except instead of butter, it’s stuffed with Bulgarian cheese.)

Traditional style Bulgarian house and museum in Old Town Plovdiv

Despite a well-organized station, finding the correct track was not as clear-cut. On one track, there were two trains going in opposite directions. It was a 50-50 guest as to which was the correct train to board, given my disorientation as to the direction of Plovdiv. Eventually, a friendly local pointed out the correct train. Resembling subway cars from 1970s New York City, each train car was colorfully tagged with various graffiti designs. Once in motion, the train rocked its way through the country, snaking along hillsides with views of bright green pastures, some with electric yellow flowers, and rolling hills speckled with small villages.

With quiet humility, Plovdiv holds the distinguished honor of being one of the world’s top 10 oldest cities, and it’s the oldest continuously inhabited city in Europe. Settlements date back 8,000 years to the Neolithic period, making it older than both Rome and Athens. Plovdiv has been at the heart of monumental battles and epic cultural birthings. Its history includes 500 years of Ottoman rule and over 40 years of communism. Yet walking down the breezy, colorful streets, you would never know the turbulent history this small region has endured over the millennia.  

The Roman Forum of Philippopolis in Central Plovdiv

One of the striking features of Plovdiv is the dichotomy between the new world and the old world, and how intertwined the structures are from eras spanning thousands of years. Walking on the main pedestrian street, passersby are confronted with imposing ruins, some of them strewn about grassy lawns with seemingly little regard. In some cases, it requires more effort to find them; entering the trendy H&M department store, it was surreal to descend a modern staircase into the basement to view remnants of one of the best intact Roman stadiums.   

Ruins of Roman stadium located in the basement of H&M clothing store

Despite being one of the world’s oldest cities, the gravity of their history, and cradling some of the best intact ancient structures, life above ground in Plovdiv carries on in a pleasant and light-hearted manner, and in family-friendly surroundings. There is plenty of shopping, a bounty of cafes and bakeries, and countless bars and restaurants to sit and enjoy watching residents and travelers stroll the tree-lined streets with contentment. Known as the City of the Seven Hills, there are several options for easy hikes to panoramic views of the city and surrounding area.   

Roman Theatre of Philippopolis and Sahat Tepe, one of the Seven Hills, in the background

Staggering scenery and history aside, what attracted me to Plovdiv was their philosophy on life. Aylyak, derived from Turkish aylaklık, meaning idleness, is a simple and straightforward philosophy. For Plodivians, life should be free, relaxed, and enjoyed to the fullest. Making time for oneself is considered essential.

It wasn’t hard to find aylyak in action in Plovdiv. At nearly every establishment I visited, the vendor, host, or chef took a few moments in between responsibilities to step outside and engage in neighborly banter. As an observer, I found it disarming to see how friendly locals were with each other, while service never skipped a beat. In one instance, the chef where I was eating brought fresh baked banitsa – Bulgarian cheese baked into filo dough – to his roommate at the bar across the road, stopping by my table to invite me to a slice. These small gestures and effortless interactions gave Plovdiv the feel of a tightknit community.  

Dzhumaya Mosque in Central Plovdiv

Plovdiv was bestowed the distinguished title of European Capital of Culture in 2019. Since then, there has been a societal revival of sorts, and a blossoming pride at the historic and cultural roots of this lesser-known destination. The city motto is “togetherness” and is practiced as a reflection of their history and desire for their future. It is expressed by the locals and through the arts.

While in Plovdiv, I tried to wrap my head around their 8,000-year history. It was an exercise to reflect that deeply. Like flying to outer space, it can be seen, and it feels within reach, but it’s hard to imagine what it’s like. And now, feeling very much part of the current wave of history, I couldn’t help but wonder how many more thousands of years Plovdiv will stand, and how future visitors will look back on this time in its evolution.

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BBC article and the source of inspiration for visiting Plovdiv: https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20201104-europes-city-of-dawdlers-and-loafers