Lights, Camera, Herring!
Siglufjörður, or Sigló as locals refer to it, is the northern most town in Iceland. To be exact, it’s 46 kilometers from the Arctic Circle. It lies at the bottom of a slope of towering mountains and at the edge a fjord, a perfect work of art carved from ancient glaciers. (Sigló was initially built on other side of the fjord, but a landslide killed several inhabitants. Avalanche barriers are now visible on the mountain above the current town.)
What drew me to Sigló was the local brewery, Segull 76. I decided to do a self-guided beer tour of Iceland’s finest craft beers, a product I was not aware of until I started researching things to do in the north. What struck me once I was in Sigló was the jaw-dropping scenery; the internet photos of this modest village of 1,500 don’t do it justice. What amazed me while there was seeing the northern lights; with research, luck, and exquisite timing, I was able to witness a spectacular show.
The Northern Lights aren’t as easy to see as I thought. Thanks to the sun recently spewing particles in our direction, in addition to other complex variables and a dash of mystery needed to ensure detection, chances for a sighting increased. When the lights appear they’re moving and fleeting. There’s a short window of opportunity (generally a 15-60 min range), and to the naked eye the lights normally appear white or gray, like a fog, especially if there is light pollution. Capturing the lights with a camera will reveal the colors.
I decided on a whim to venture out from the guesthouse where I was staying at 9:00PM. As if a curtain was raised, the lights soon revealed themselves, at first slowly, and then the sky started to dance. I darted around town for 45 minutes as the only soul apparent, clicking and snapping as many images as I could.
The movement of the lights in the sky was eerie. They were erratic and unpredictable, and at times the “fog” was so widespread it felt as if I would be swallowed by it. Somewhat unsettling, it was mostly awe-inspiring.
A trip to Siglufjörður is well worth the effort it takes to get there (by car or public transport). And a visit to the Herring Museum is a must. I had read very good reviews, but admittedly it sounded quite boring. On the contrary, it was one of the best museums I’ve visited.
The museum is set up in three different buildings with the original rooms and artifacts within breathing distance and no barriers to prevent hapless accidents or tampering. There is a deep trust bestowed upon visitors, and the experience takes you back decades to the time where “herring girls” and Nordic men were hard at work building what would become Iceland’s cash cow, or “silver of the sea,” bringing the country great economic wealth.
Charming, quaint, and picturesque, Siglufjörður is one of Iceland’s best kept secrets. I highly recommend it for the beer, hospitality, and mind-blowing scenery.