Extremes at El Escorial
Feeling as if in a dream state, I found myself toggling between detailed miniaturized and life-size biblical scenes as I strolled by mossy stone walls in a seemingly medieval village. I entered a structure too large to consume with one glance and eventually descended through a dark marble staircase and end up in small circular quarters surrounded by kings and queens.
It was two weeks before Christmas and San Lorenzo de El Escorial, near Madrid, was brimming with nativity scenes called belén, common throughout Spain this time of year. This was my first time seeing a belén, which I hadn’t known about before. Shortly after exiting the train station, I encountered an expansive and elaborate miniaturized world that pulled its observers back in time as various passersby became glued to the scene, circling it in an almost hypnotic state. It was no wonder with the inviting textures, colors, and excruciating details from various biblical scenes of shepherds, artisans, the Three Kings, and of course the Holy Family. Even more striking was the life-size belén situated up the road in the middle of the village with figures lining the various walkways, including rows of Roman soldiers.
Scene from a minature belén near the train station in San Lorenzo de El Escorial
Belén with life-size figure in the town center
After fueling up at Cafeteria Segovia with a very satisfying lunch of fried eggs, bacon, a hotdog-like sausage, and French fries, I headed up to the main attraction, the Monastery of El Escorial. Built at the behest of King Felipe II, the monastery is an imposing structure with a simultaneously inviting and foreboding appearance. The cloudy weather, bare trees, and a sun that refuses to climb too far above the horizon added to the wintry atmosphere of this charming village where back in its zenith, the sound of horse hooves and the clanging of armor might’ve filled the narrow, winding streets surrounding the monolith.
El Escorial monastery near Madrid, Spain
There was a lot of ground to cover in the monastery so I opted to check out the main highlights. No photos are allowed. As tempting as it can be to snap countless photos with an iPhone to post as part of one’s travel braggadocio, it forces visitors to absorb the environment, commit notable sites to memory, and to enjoy the present moment. The Library, the Hall of Battles, and various personal living areas were all wildly impressive, but I couldn’t help but pause to reflect in the pantheon of princes and kings, surrounded by countless members of royalty who had overseen the rise and subsequent decline of the Spanish empire, the gains in riches, loss of life, and events that would shape the world for generations to come.
One striking aspect of the pantheon was the high degree of artisanship that was invested in the sarcophagi. I stopped to absorb the workmanship of one in particular that was built for a prince. The lifelike details were chiseled into marble, bringing to the surface an image of what once lay beneath before the ravages of decay would take hold. The carved tassels caught my eye leading to the cushion where his head rests, the marble from which it was made contrasting coldly to the familiar soft material enjoyed by the living. The neatly pleated pattern of his ruff, his thick wavy hair and distinguished goatee, down to his feet, which were captured in armor detailed with reptilian-like scales and matching the gloves resting at his ankle side. And finally, a miniature lion laying elegantly at his feet, just big enough to fit perfectly across the width of his body. It was breathtaking.
My last stop was the gardens with perfectly manicured hedges and a view of the land outstretched before the monastery and its neighboring village. All of this lay at the foot of sloping hills leading to glistening green pastures filled with grazing cattle. It was a quieting scene to behold.
View from gardens at El Escorial monastery