Chippers and Bangers

The way I would describe Irish cuisine is comfort food. Aside from small stylistic differences, I didn’t experience much variation between regions. However that doesn’t mean they don’t exist. It could be that I didn’t have enough time to delve into regional varieties, or my palette does not have the sophistication to distinguish the differences. In either case, I was happily immersed in the familiar and characteristic dishes.

The go-to bangers and mash with Guinness at Sheehan’s in Dublin

My first fish and chips encounter in Ireland was probably my favorite. It was at a quiet location off the main street in Carlingford – Juniors Bar & Bistro. As the name suggests, there was both a bar and bistro area. This is a feature about dining in Ireland I found very appealing – the pub and restaurant cohabitation. It was a neighboring between a casual environment where bar “snacks” include robust and tasty meals, and a more formal sitting room where larger groups can dine together with a larger menu selection, both under one roof.    

Fish and chips at The Old Mill restaurant served with vinegar (for the chips) and mushy peas

I opted for the bar where there was only a handful of patrons. It seemed that everyone there knew each other, including the barkeep. I was pleasantly surprised at the size of the fish and the elegant presentation. What really tipped the scale for me was the homemade tartar sauce. It was rich, creamy, and with just enough tang.     

Before diving to the fish and chips, I started with potato leek soup, another common menu item I would sample at multiple locations. Needless to say, potatoes were common not only in soups, but also as complements to main dishes. Potatoes have long been a key staple in Ireland; they take up minimal space and they have high nutritional value. I was told, although I have not verified, that in the 1700s, Irish soldiers were found to be two inches taller than English due to their consumption of potatoes and buttermilk, compared to their English counterparts who dined on tea and biscuits.   

Potato leek soup with a hearty Guinness bread at Juniors Bar & Bistro in Carlingford

Seafood chowder was also part of the highly rated local fare. The Carlingford Arms Pub & Restaurant would boast having “famous” seafood chowder. I couldn’t resist this challenge, and indeed, it was one of the best I had tasted. Following a delicious hearty seafood chowder, one might opt to move on to bangers and mash. I indulged in bangers in the big cities, Dublin and Belfast, without disappointment. With the exception of variations in gravy style and the addition or omission of friend onions, they were equally savory and delicious. With cooler summer weather, it was a satiating and comforting meal.      

The famous seafood chowder at Carlingford Arms Pub & Restaurant

With respect to post-savory sweet indulgences, sticky toffee pudding is a local favorite, and one with which I was familiar. What was new to me was Baileys cheesecake, which I discovered in Dublin. I read it on a menu outside a pub and was determined to return after having eaten at another location. Dismayed and disappointed, I found the pub closed when I returned. Then in a boomerang of emotions, I was pleasantly surprised to find it at another location. Soon enough I would see it on most pub menus. It’s most often made as a no-bake cheesecake, a silky and creamy filling sitting atop a graham cracker-like crust, and with just enough Bailey’s to give it a healthy accent.

Baileys cheesecake with dollops of raspberry sauce

Fresh and satisfying, my meals in Ireland always felt familiar and home-cooked. In a pub surrounded by friends and merrymakers, or in a dining area with families and formally dressed waiters, what carried across the dining experiences, the food as the conduit, was grounded and comforting.