Amazigh ⵄⵎⴰⵣⵉⴳⵀ (not Berber)

Commonly known as Berber, the Amazigh (pronounced ama-zeer, delicately bringing the tongue to the roof of the mouth at the end to give the “r” a soft landing) have occupied north Africa for over 20,000 years. Different terminology is used to describe the tribe, sub-groups within the tribe, and the language. In this post, I refer to the community as Amazigh and the language as Tamazight (pronounced tama-zeert).

The name Amazigh means “free man” and is the preferred term used by the community. The name Berber is derived from the Arabic word for barbarian and although still commonly used, the historical meaning is generally considered discriminatory. Most Amazigh currently identify as Sunni Muslim, but they have held steadfast to other aspects of their cultural roots that pre-date the Arabs, including the Tamazight language.

In Morocco, the Amazigh constitute approximately 30% of the population. They are a prominent and notable part of the Moroccan culture, not to mention important to the economy. The Tamazight language is now recognized as an official language of Morocco, and most signage includes French, Arabic, and Tamazight using the Tifinagh alphabet (an example included in the blog title).

I had the honor of staying in the home of an Amazigh family in the village of Imlil, located roughly 60 kilometers south of Marrakech in the High Atlas Mountains. Imlil is a collection of seven different communities, all with distinct names and a shared commercial center, totally around 8,000 residents. It’s surrounded by jaw-dropping scenery, including fast flowing streams resulting from melting snow that cap nearby peaks.

The village of Imlil, located in the Atlas Mountains

Imlil is informally known as the trekking capital of Morocco. Eager climbers visit from all over the world to summit Mount Toubkal. At an impressive 4,167 meters (13,671 feet), Toubkal is the highest peak in North Africa and stands coolly but vividly near the village. I decided to visit Imlil for a few days to do some trekking. My guide, Abdou, and his family happen to rent out their home as a guesthouse. This was a convenient and ideal combination for my visit.

The village center is quaint with enough shops to supply the residents with essentials and keep visitors entertained – stores selling local fruits and nuts, a butcher stand, and the usual rugs and baubles found in the cities. The main mode of transportation is mule. They haul food and other items for locals and tourists, and the carry individuals up and down the dirt and rocky roads that lead from the center to the various communities.

Rushing stream walking distance from Dar Amadine, Imlil

Trekking

After a short hike to my accommodation, I finally arrived at Dar Amadine. I had barely set my bags down when Abdou’s neighbor arrived with a welcome tray of mint tea and a plate of fresh locally harvested walnuts. I had a few very comfortable hours to settle in when Abdou returned from a half-day trek. He was ready to go without pause – the first day we went on an easy 2-hour hike on trails surrounding the village.

Traditional Moroccan tea and locally harvested walnuts served as a welcome refreshment at Dar Amadine

Despite his relaxed and laidback demeanor, my sense was that Abdou was always a man on the go. And he is. Abdou takes visitors trekking regularly, if not daily, on various trails and through multiple villages in the Atlas Mountains; and of course up to Toubkal, sometimes multiple times in a week. He is proud and knowledgeable about the Amazigh culture, and I would learn by listening and witnessing firsthand the essence of their values during my brief stay. 

Cat in the distance crossing a quiet road in the community of Aroumd, Imlil

I trekked with Abdou for two days. The first day we went on a leisurely 7-hour hike, reaching 2,800 meters in elevation. The trails were well-established and easy to navigate. We eventually reached the snowline having come from the village where the temperatures were warm and sunny. The scenery was varied and colorful, especially the different colors of soil and clay. The villages sprinkled throughout the mountains are built using local clays and earth, allowing them to easily blend into the surrounding environment.

View from trek in the Atlas Mountains where various earth tones are prominent

Zoomed-in image to highlight dramatic earth tone variation with trail in foreground

Trekking guide, Abdou, with goats roaming in the background

The second day we trekked for roughly a half-day. We traveled across streams and to one of multiple nearby waterfalls. We took a brief break to absorb the view of the valley, resting near a small group of grazing baby goats. We passed through town where Abdou picked up food supplies. I couldn’t help but notice how he knew everyone. There were warm and friendly greetings at every stop, revealing a real sense of love and community. We finished the day with a walk through one of the nearby village communities before ending at Dar Amadine.

Passed a group of baby goats grazing while trekking near Imlil

Amazigh values

The foundation of the Amazigh culture is based on generosity and acceptance. I dressed conservatively in Morocco in deference to the Islamic culture. In Marrakech, many women were dressed in shorts and sleeveless blouses. Although not uncommon and generally tolerated in the big cities, I was told that in smaller towns and villages, it’s advisable to dress conservatively out of respect.

When I commented to Abdou that I was surprised to see visitors in Imlil wearing shorts, acknowledging my concern, he remarked with a tone of acceptance, “We understand that is part of their culture.” The Amazigh do not see differences between people or groups (religious or otherwise). They accept everyone for who they are what they believe in.

Trekking guide, Abdou (ⴰⵀⴷⴻ in Tifinagh) with view of Mt. Toubkal in the background

There’s a richness to the connection with nature in the Amazigh community. Family homes include a shelter for animals on the lower level with families living and sleeping above them. I could hear sheep bleating and kids playing all from within the same residence. One day strolling through the village, I spotted three elderly women dressed in colorful garments and head scarves all resting on a sloping hillside with half a dozen sheep. They were one clan. I waved to the women and they waved back in a friendly exchange.

Sheep grazing below Dar Amadine, Imlil

Abdou talked about how the villagers take care of each other: if someone is hungry, they will be given food; if someone is cold, they will be given clothing. I happen to be visiting the week Ramadan started. Abdou generously invited me to join his family to “break Ramadan” and join them for their first meal of the day, which takes places after sunset and last prayer call. It’s also referred to as “breaking fast” or “breakfast” (which, until this trip, I had never given the double meaning any thought). We enjoyed a delicious wheat harira (soup) and meatball tagine as we watched a television series spoken in Tamazight and with Amazigh actors. I couldn’t help but notice the parallel of watching television during dinner, similar to what you might experience in an American household.

There is a levity about the Amazigh community. The bonding with family, neighbors, and nature is infectious and nurturing. For Abdou and many in the Amazigh community, what’s important is what happens day to day; not worrying about politics, accumulation of wealth, or other materialistic tendencies that commonly plague western cultures. The philosophy is simple and elegant, and I couldn’t help but feel my own worldly worries dissipate during my stay.

The Amazigh flag succinctly projects the values of the community through colors and symbolism. The blue, green, and yellow horizontal lines represent the abundance of water, health of the land, and strength of the sun, all ingredients for a happy and prosperous life. The middle of the flag is proudly emblazoned with a bold and red yaz (ⵣ), symbolizing the “free man” and the core value of the Amazigh people.

Me wearing traditional Amazigh dress at Dar Amadine

There are few experiences in life that can create a notable shift in our very being. Not only a change in perception, but a moment of personal growth and realization, and even reprioritization of our values and sensibilities. What I learned from Abdou left me enamored with the Amazigh culture and way of life. In an increasingly complex world, there is still so much beauty and satisfaction in simplicity, and nature will always reign. My stay in Imlil helped reinforce my own values related to the health of the planet, taking care of ourselves, mentally and physically, and taking care of each other. And the resources to do this are already there in front of us.

Accommodation link

Dar Amadine in Imlil is a serene accommodation where you can also enjoy nearby trekking:  https://www.daramadine.com/